The City of Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Fruit in Urban Spaces
Each quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel railway carriage arrives at a spray-painted station. Nearby, a police siren cuts through the almost continuous road noise. Commuters hurry past collapsing, ivy-draped garden fences as storm clouds gather.
It is perhaps the least likely spot you anticipate to find a perfectly formed grape-growing plot. But one local grower has managed to 40 mature vines sagging with round mauve grapes on a rambling garden plot situated between a row of historic homes and a local rail line just north of Bristol town centre.
"I've seen people hiding illegal substances or other items in those bushes," says Bayliss-Smith. "Yet you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your grapevines."
Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who runs a kombucha drinks business, is not the only local vintner. He's pulled together a informal group of cultivators who produce wine from four discreet city grape gardens tucked away in back gardens and community plots across the city. The project is too clandestine to possess an official name so far, but the group's WhatsApp group is named Vineyard Dreams.
City Wine Gardens Across the Globe
To date, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the sole location registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming global directory, which includes more famous city vineyards such as the 1,800 plants on the hillsides of Paris's renowned Montmartre area and over three thousand grapevines overlooking and inside Turin. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the vanguard of a initiative reviving city vineyards in historic wine-producing nations, but has identified them all over the world, including cities in Japan, South Asia and Central Asia.
"Grape gardens help urban areas stay greener and more diverse. They preserve land from development by establishing permanent, productive agricultural units within urban environments," says the organization's leader.
Similar to other vintages, those created in urban areas are a product of the soils the vines thrive in, the vagaries of the weather and the individuals who care for the fruit. "Each vintage represents the beauty, community, landscape and heritage of a city," notes the spokesperson.
Unknown Eastern European Grapes
Back in the city, the grower is in a race against time to harvest the vines he cultivated from a plant abandoned in his allotment by a Polish family. If the rain arrives, then the birds may seize their chance to attack again. "This is the mystery Eastern European variety," he says, as he cleans damaged and rotten berries from the shimmering clusters. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they're definitely hardy. In contrast to noble varieties – Pinot Noir, white wine grapes and additional renowned European varieties – you need not treat them with chemicals ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."
Collective Efforts Throughout the City
The other members of the group are additionally taking advantage of sunny interludes between bursts of fall precipitation. On the terrace with views of Bristol's glistening waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with casks of wine from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is collecting her rondo grapes from approximately fifty vines. "I adore the aroma of these vines. The scent is so reminiscent," she says, stopping with a basket of grapes slung over her arm. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you open the car windows on holiday."
Grant, 52, who has spent over two decades working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, inadvertently took over the grape garden when she moved back to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her household in recent years. She felt an strong responsibility to maintain the vines in the garden of their new home. "This plot has already survived three different owners," she explains. "I really like the concept of environmental care – of handing this down to future caretakers so they can keep cultivating from this land."
Sloping Gardens and Traditional Production
A short walk away, the final two members of the group are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has established more than one hundred fifty vines perched on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the muddy River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, indicating the interwoven grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."
Today, the filmmaker, sixty, is harvesting clusters of dusty purple Rondo grapes from rows of plants slung across the hillside with the help of her daughter, her family member. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on streaming service's nature programming and television network's Gardeners' World, was motivated to plant grapes after observing her neighbour's vines. She has learned that amateurs can produce interesting, enjoyable natural wine, which can command prices of more than seven pounds a glass in the growing number of wine bars specialising in low-processing vintages. "It is deeply rewarding that you can truly create good, natural wine," she says. "It is quite on trend, but really it's reviving an traditional method of making vintage."
"During foot-stomping the fruit, all the wild yeasts come off the skins and enter the juice," explains the winemaker, ankle deep in a container of tiny stems, seeds and crimson juice. "This represents how vintages were made traditionally, but commercial producers add sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the natural cultures and then incorporate a commercially produced yeast."
Challenging Conditions and Inventive Approaches
A few doors down sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who inspired his neighbor to establish her grapevines, has gathered his companions to harvest Chardonnay grapes from the 100 plants he has arranged precisely across two terraces. Reeve, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who worked at Bristol University developed a passion for viticulture on regular visits to France. But it is a difficult task to grow this particular variety in the humidity of the valley, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to produce French-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers," says the retiree with amusement. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and very sensitive to mildew."
"My goal was creating Burgundian wines in this environment, which is rather ambitious"
The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the sole problem encountered by winegrowers. The gardener has had to erect a fence on